E.l.f. Beauty's chief financial officer said in a CNBC interview published on October 16 that the company is absorbing a meaningful portion of tariff costs while redirecting marketing dollars toward channels it can measure more precisely, as the mass beauty category slows. The combination is unusual. Most consumer brands facing input cost pressure either raise shelf prices or cut marketing. Doing both partially, while holding the entry price point that defines the brand, is a narrower path and it puts unusual strain on the price architecture.
Key Conclusions
Mass beauty competes on a value promise that is expressed in a very small number of price points. A brand that moves its opening price from one tier to the next can lose the shopper who buys on impulse, and that shopper is the volume base. Absorbing tariffs protects the price point but compresses gross margin, which means the marketing budget has to work harder per dollar rather than simply get larger.
Shifting spend toward measurable channels is the logical response, but it carries a second-order effect. Performance channels reward conversion, so budget migrates toward shoppers already close to purchase. Brand building, which creates the future consideration set, is harder to attribute and therefore tends to shrink. Over several quarters this shows up as stable conversion with a declining pool of new buyers.
Why the entry price point is the last thing to move
In mass beauty the opening price functions as a signal, not just a transaction. It tells a shopper that the brand belongs in her consideration set before she reads a single ingredient claim. Raising it by a small absolute amount can produce a large percentage change, and the shopper compares percentages rather than dollars. That asymmetry is why brands in this tier defend the entry point and absorb cost elsewhere in the assortment.
Data view: where the margin actually goes
When a brand absorbs tariff costs, the margin loss is not distributed evenly across the assortment. It concentrates in the highest-volume, lowest-price units, because those carry the thinnest absolute margin per unit and the largest unit count. A brand that protects its entry price is effectively choosing to lose margin on its traffic drivers while trying to recover it on premium items and bundles.
That recovery depends on the shopper trading up within the brand, which is exactly what a weakened brand-building budget makes harder. The two decisions interact, and the interaction is where most plans break. Modeling the assortment as a portfolio rather than as an average margin number is the only way to see the trade-off before it appears in the quarterly results.
Measurement quality decides which channels survive
Performance channels are not inherently better; they are better measured. A channel with clean attribution wins budget from a channel with ambiguous attribution even when the latter builds more durable demand. Retail media has accelerated this because it sits close to the transaction and reports conversion in a format finance teams accept. The risk is that the portfolio becomes optimized for what can be counted rather than for what compounds.
Best Practices
The first practice is to set a floor for brand investment expressed as a share of revenue rather than as a residual. When marketing is funded after margin, cost pressure always reaches it first. A protected floor, reviewed annually rather than quarterly, keeps the consideration set from eroding during exactly the periods when competitors are also cutting.
The second practice is to test price architecture at the pack level rather than at the brand level. Smaller pack sizes, refill formats and bundled sets allow a brand to hold the visible entry price while improving revenue per unit. These moves are visible to shoppers, so they must be supported by a clear reason, but they preserve the signal that the opening price carries.
Treat retail media as a shelf asset, not a media buy
Retail media spend buys placement in search results and category pages, which is closer to shelf space than to advertising. That framing changes the metrics: share of search, add-to-cart rate and repeat purchase matter more than impressions. Brands that manage retail media with shelf discipline tend to hold their position through promotional periods, while brands that treat it as a campaign buy see performance collapse when spending stops.
Common Mistakes
The most common mistake is passing tariffs through uniformly across the assortment. A uniform increase protects the margin ratio but damages the entry price point, which is the asset that generates trial. Selective absorption, funded by premium tier adjustments, usually produces a better outcome even though it looks less tidy in a pricing table.
The second mistake is cutting marketing during a category slowdown. Slowdowns change the mix of shoppers, not the total number of them, and brands that maintain presence tend to gain share as weaker competitors withdraw. The temptation to protect the current quarter's margin is strong, and it is usually the more expensive choice over a two-year horizon.
Do not confuse promotion depth with price strategy
Deep promotional discounts can hold volume for a quarter while teaching shoppers to wait. In a category where the entry price is the brand signal, frequent deep discounting undermines the very position the brand is paying tariffs to protect. Promotional depth should be capped and rotated across items, so that no single price point becomes permanently discounted in the shopper's mind.
Outlook: the mass tier is being repriced
The mass beauty tier is going through a repricing that is only partly about tariffs. Input costs, freight and retail media inflation have all risen, while the shopper's reference price has not moved. Brands are being asked to deliver the same value promise with a structurally higher cost base, and there is no pricing lever that solves this without touching either the entry point or the margin.
The brands that navigate this tend to share one characteristic: they know precisely which price points carry the brand signal and which are negotiable. That knowledge is an analytical asset, built from transaction data rather than from category averages, and it is what allows a company to absorb cost in one place and recover it in another without losing the shopper.
Summary
E.l.f. Beauty is absorbing part of its tariff burden while shifting marketing toward measurable channels as mass beauty slows. Protecting the entry price point preserves trial, but it concentrates margin loss in the highest-volume units.That combination protects trial but concentrates margin loss in the units that generate the most traffic.
The practical disciplines are a protected floor for brand investment, pack-level price architecture rather than brand-level increases, and managing retail media with shelf metrics. Cutting marketing during a slowdown is usually the more expensive choice.Each discipline is designed to survive a quarter in which the margin line looks worse than the plan.
Data Sources
1. CNBC: E.l.f. Beauty CFO on tariffs and marketing
2. CNBC: Barclays on haircare gains
3. CNBC: Constellation Brands cuts outlook
4. CNBC: VF Corp and Kontoor Brands in focus
FAQ
Why not simply raise prices to cover tariffs?
A: Because the entry price point carries the brand signal in mass beauty, and a small absolute increase is a large percentage change to the shopper.
Where does absorbed tariff cost concentrate?
A: In the highest-volume, lowest-price units, which have the thinnest absolute margin and the largest unit count.
What is a protected marketing floor?
A: A commitment to brand investment as a share of revenue, reviewed annually, so cost pressure cannot silently consume it.
How can a brand hold its entry price and improve revenue per unit?
A: Through pack architecture such as smaller sizes, refill formats and bundles, each supported by a clear shopper reason.
Why treat retail media as shelf space?
A: Because it buys placement in search and category pages, so share of search and repeat purchase matter more than impressions.
Is cutting marketing in a slowdown ever right?
A: Rarely. Slowdowns shift the shopper mix, and brands that stay present tend to gain share as competitors withdraw.
References
1. CNBC: E.l.f. Beauty CFO interview










